Discovering Poços de Caldas: a hot springs haven in the Mantiqueira Mountains

Nestled in the Mantiqueira Mountains, Poços de Caldas offers a perfect blend of relaxation, nature, and historic charm, making it one of the most pleasant destinations in Minas Gerais.

First impressions of Poços de Caldas

Arriving in Poços de Caldas felt like stepping into another era. The city has an old-fashioned charm that immediately made me slow down and breathe deeper. The mild mountain air, the scent of trees after a drizzle, and the elegant 19th-century buildings all created a tranquil mood that’s hard to find elsewhere.

Located in southern Minas Gerais, Poços de Caldas sits on the edge of the Mantiqueira Mountains, around 1,200 meters above sea level. The city’s main attraction has always been its thermal waters, rich in minerals and naturally heated by volcanic activity deep underground. For generations, people have traveled here to rest, heal, and reconnect with themselves.

The soothing power of the thermal baths

One of my first stops was the Thermal Spa of Poços de Caldas, locally known as the Balneário Mário Mourão. Stepping inside feels like entering a time capsule — the marble floors, tall columns, and scent of eucalyptus remind you of an old European bathhouse. I decided to try a mineral bath, and within minutes, I could feel the warmth relaxing every muscle in my body.

The water here is naturally hot and slightly sulfurous, believed to help with circulation, stress, and skin conditions. Whether or not the medical claims are true, there’s no denying the emotional and physical relief of soaking in these soothing waters.

Nearby, the Thermas Antônio Carlos is another classic spa that combines therapeutic treatments with a historic setting. It’s the kind of place where you could easily lose track of time, drifting between massages, mineral pools, and quiet reading corners.

Strolling through historic charm

After my morning of relaxation, I wandered through the city center, where wide boulevards and well-kept parks make walking a pleasure. The José Affonso Junqueira Park is a beautiful green space right in the heart of town, surrounded by grand old buildings like the Palace Hotel, a symbol of early 20th-century luxury.

I couldn’t resist stepping inside the Palace Casino, which now serves as a cultural center. Its art deco interior, once filled with music and dance, still carries echoes of the glamour of Brazil’s golden age.

In the afternoon, I visited the Fonte dos Amores, a small natural park featuring a waterfall and the famous statue of two lovers carved in marble. The sound of the falls and the cool mist made it one of my favorite spots in the city.

Exploring the nature around Poços de Caldas

Beyond the city, Poços de Caldas offers countless opportunities for outdoor adventures. The Serra de São Domingos, easily visible from almost anywhere in town, is the perfect spot for a hike or a cable car ride. At the top, I found the massive Christ the Redeemer statue, which offers panoramic views over the valley. Watching the sunset from up there was an unforgettable experience.

For those who love waterfalls, Cachoeira Véu das Noivas is a must-see. It’s easily accessible and surrounded by small artisan stalls where locals sell crafts, sweets, and cheeses.

If you have a bit more time, drive out to the Recanto Japonês, a serene Japanese-style garden with ponds, bridges, and bonsai trees. It’s a peaceful retreat that reflects the city’s slower rhythm and appreciation for beauty.

The taste of Minas Gerais

No trip to Poços de Caldas would be complete without sampling the regional food. Minas Gerais is known for its comfort cuisine, and this city doesn’t disappoint.

I had lunch at a small restaurant serving tutu de feijão, torresmo, and pão de queijo straight from the oven. The cheese bread was perfectly crispy outside and soft inside, just the way it should be. Later in the afternoon, I visited a fábrica de doces, where traditional sweets like goiabada cascão and doce de leite are made the old-fashioned way.

To end the day, I sipped coffee at a café overlooking the park — a perfect closing ritual for a day that blended wellness, history, and nature.

Conclusion

Poços de Caldas is more than a spa town — it’s a place that invites you to pause, reflect, and enjoy simple pleasures. From the soothing thermal baths to the mountain views and the unmistakable warmth of the local people, every corner of this city carries a sense of calm.

As I left, I felt lighter — both in body and mind. Poços de Caldas reminded me that travel isn’t only about seeing new places; it’s also about rediscovering balance.